The Tyutyu massif has five independent summits, up to 4,460m, and offers traditional rock and alpine routes in a gorgeous setting. The longest and most alpine routes are on the north side, which can be reached only by a long trek or by helicopter to the Tyutyu-su valley. The rocky routes on the south side are easily reachable from the Adir-su valley. A good road provides access, and it takes only four to five hours to reach the south face of Tyutyu from the hostel and campground in the valley

After eight years away from this region, in the summer of 2013, I stayed for 10 days as a mountain guide student. I was happy that Julia Belozerskaya, my wife and climbing partner, was here as well. As soon as the courses were finished we headed to Tyutyu, aiming to explore something new on the south face. In good weather, we followed beautiful granite cracks for eight pitches to make the first ascent of the southeast face of Tyutyu’s Second West summit (4,420m). All but one small section of wet rock went free: Expromtus (635m, 5A/TD 6a A2).

Maxim Foygel, provided by Anna Piunova, Mountain.ru