This incident occurred on September 18. While climbing the Directissima Route on Yamnuska, the leader pulled off a large block, hitting the belayer. The belayer was knocked unconscious for 20 to 25 seconds before becoming responsive. He was bleeding with a head injury. Rescue personnel arrived from both Kananaskis Public Safety and Banff National Park to evacuate the patient. The injured party was slung off and transferred to hospital via air ambulance. The injured belayer sustained a laceration and a concussion.

Analysis

The leader was off route, failed to follow directions, and did not test the rock for loose holds. Proactive anticipation of risks requires leaders to recognize poor rock quality and to know when they are off route.