Lead Fall on Roc - Failure to Follow Directions (Off Route), Poor Position
Alberta, Yamnuska, Bottleneck
On July 2, a party of two was off route near the fifth pitch of Bottleneck on Yamnuska. A foot slipped and the leader fell 15 to 20 meters. All of the lead gear held and stopped the fall. However, one of the party’s double ropes sustained damage. The leader was secured, and the belayer rappelled to the fallen climber to give first aid and to call for a rescue. Both members of the team were slung off the face by the Kananaskis Public Safety rescue team. The patient was transported to hospital by air ambulance. The injured party sustained a fracture.
Analysis
In retrospect, it can be seen that the party was slightly off route and the leader climbed into a poor position. It was fortunate that the lead gear held. Exposure to this kind of mishap can be reduced through better routefinding skills and by recognizing the consequences of loose terrain.