Lead Fall on Rock - Protection Pulled Out

Alberta, Ha Ling Peak (Chinaman's Peak), Northeast Ridge
Climb Year: 2012. Publication Year: 2013.

On July 8 a party of two was ascending the Northeast Ridge (5.6) of Ha Ling Peak. The leader climbed off route and subsequently fell 10 meters, pulling a cam in the process. Kananaskis Public Safety rescuers slung the climbers from the face and transferred care to EMS. The injured leader sustained abrasions, lacerations, and a fracture.

Analysis

It was deemed that the leader failed to follow route directions. Risks can be reduced with better route knowledge and by being able to recognize when the climbing difficulties exceed the grade. If feasible, the leader should place adequate gear. This may not have been possible in this case. Getting off route is a frequent occurrence in the Rockies. Being able to recognize and follow an established route is a skill leaders acquire through experience.