Fall on Rock--Rappel Error

Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Challenge Buttress
Climb Year: 2012. Publication Year: 2013.

On September 20, according to Unified Police Capt. Kris Ownby, two men (23 and 31) were rappelling down the Challenge Buttress, just across from Storm Mountain, about 8 p.m. One of them fell off the end of the rope, and both fell as a result because they were simul-rappelling. One fell 10 feet, and the other fell 40 feet. Ownby said the 23-year-old suffered a lower leg laceration and a possible sprained ankle, but his companion sustained more severe injuries to his legs and upper body.

About 20 rescuers, including four paramedics, responded to the scene. The 23-year-old climber was aided in completing his ascent by 9:30 p.m. and drove himself to a hospital to be checked out. The other climber was lowered by rescuers shortly thereafter and taken to University Hospital in serious but nonlife-threatening condition. (Source: Edited from an article by Bob Mims in The Salt Lake Tribune.)

Analysis
I was the 23-year-old involved in the accident. We are still not sure what happened. My friend and I were still hooked onto the rope after we fell because I had knotted the ends. All I remember is him falling really fast and hitting the ground, and then I fell as a result. I have simul-rappelled several times before. I still do not know what went wrong or what I should do differently in the future. I do think I need to start using prusiks for backup, especially when using single ropes.

My friend is doing OK. He has a fractured vertebrae, but the doctors say he will heal up 100 percent.