Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection – Boulder Dislodged

Tennessee, Prentice Cooper State Forest, Tennessee Wall
Climb Year: 2012. Publication Year: 2013.

On February 10, a pair of experienced climbers were climbing Prerequisite for Excellence (5.8). The leader took a fall on a cam that was placed behind a block, dislodging the block (estimated to weigh approximately 200 pounds), which fell and hit his belayer, crushing his torso. According to a witness involved in the rescue, the belayer caught the fall on his Grigri, and was actually pulled up and into the falling boulder. She said that the belayer was wearing a helmet.

The belayer suffered a broken arm, ruptured spleen, and a “destroyed” knee. In spite of these injuries, he still managed to safely lower his climber after the fall. (Source: From a series of posts on Rockclimbing.com, February 13, 2012.)

Analysis

Placing gear in or behind blocks that may be loose is not recommended, since the camming or wedging action created by the unit can cause the block to shift or fall. This can be compounded by falling on the protection, as was the case in this situation. (Source: Aram Attarian.)