Gary Morgan (52) had flown in from Michigan and was attempting a summit climb on June 21 by a South Side variation, the West Crater Rim. After losing his footing, he was unable to self-arrest with his hiking stick. The 300-foot slide resulted in a concussion and hip/leg injuries. Nearby climbers (including Portland Mountain Rescue leaders Joe Owens, Michael Lemming, and Jarod Cogswell) witnessed the fall and provided first aid. Morgan was sled-evacuated by a PMR team to an awaiting Timberline snowcat.

Analysis

Morgan was observed to be under-equipped and demonstrated poor crampon technique when traversing to the “old chute.” He lacked the ice axe and rigid mountaineering boots required for this route. His inexperience also prevented him from using from proper crampon technique. When asked about an ice axe, he responded “Nah, I travel light.” (Source: Jeff Scheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue.)