Huayna Potosi, south peak, east face, La Ventanita de la Paz
Bolivia, Cordillera Real
On the lower south summit (ca 5,960m) of Huayna Potosi, the Peruvian guide Victor Hugo Rimac climbed a new line to the right of the classic Via de los Franceses (300m, AD+ 55°, Cardon-Mesili, 1974). On December 8 and 9, when the weather was unfavorable, he reconnoitered possible new routes, and on the 11th he started from Campamento Argentino in mist, with the temperature down to -7°C. He followed the French route to the bottom of the face, crossing the bergschrund at 3 a.m. in improving weather. He then moved to the right-hand side of the face, where there are mixed rock bands, and slanted up left over soft snow slopes and mixed ground to an exit on the right-hand ridge, where he joined the “Bordas-Muñoz route” (300m, AD+ 75°, Gonzalez-Hevia-Rey-Vazquez, 1990) for the last short section to the summit. The safest exit onto the right-hand ridge involved a 20m rock wall with moves of 5 and 6a. Rimac climbed his route in four hours and named it La Ventanita de la Paz (D+, 6a 50-70°). Local climbers consider it would only be feasible with good snow cover, as was the case during 2012.
Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru