American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Lenak Valley, Nga Tsoey Kangri (L13, 6,080m), first official ascent

India, Zanskar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Hiroaki Ogihara, Kyoto University AC, Japan
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

After reading a report by Kimikazu Sakamoto on the exploration of Lenak and Giabul valleys [AAJ 2012], Karin Kosaka, Yusuke Morimoto, Yuki Sawada, and I as leader, all from Kyoto University Alpine Club, planned to attempt virgin peak L15 (6,070m) in the left branch of the Lenak Nala. On September 9 we established base camp at ca 4,800m, and the same day walked to the foot of L15 at ca 5,050m. From this viewpoint an ascent seemed both difficult and dangerous due to steep, unstable scree and avalanche potential. Instead, we decided to attempt L13.

After establishing two higher camps, on the 14th Morimoto and I climbed scree slopes and 30° snow to the col between the east and west summits of L13. Fifteen minutes along a broad ridge led to the east top. Back at the col we roped up and climbed three pitches to the west summit (6,080m), a rocky top on which we were disappointed to find a cairn. Back in Delhi, we were recognized as the first official ascensionists and named the peak Nga Tsoey Kangri.

Hiroaki Ogihara, Kyoto University AC, Japan

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