American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Mountaineering
Author
Sean Villanueva, Belgium
Publication
AAJ
Section
Climbs And Expeditions
Climb Year
2013
Volume
55
Issue
87
Copyright Date
2013
Page
240
Keywords
Argentina, Chaltén Massif, Patagonia, Villanueva, Hanssens, Grand Hotel, El Flaco con Domingo

Fitz Roy, north face, Persiguiendo el Avión

Argentina, Chaltén Massif

Climbs And Expeditions

Author: Sean Villanueva, Belgium

After doing two first free ascents in the Torres del Paine [see Chile section] Stephane Hanssens and I headed back to El Chaltén. (We had already been there in December and climbed the Ragni route on Cerro Torre.) On our last three days in South America (early March), a very good weather window appeared, so we headed up the hill for a last time. We went for the northwest face of Fitz Roy and climbed nonstop, even through the night.

Our route climbed new ground to the Grand Hotel and finished up El Flaco con Domingo. We onsighted every pitch but one, on which we lowered back down for the redpoint. All said: 1,800m of climbing, 900m of new ground, with difficulties to 7b+. The route took us 31 hours base camp to summit and 46 hours round-trip. We took a one-hour nap on the glacier, and then we had to run down to El Chaltén and Rio Gallegos to catch our plane! We called the climb Persiguiendo el Avión (Chasing the Plane, 1,800m, 7b+).

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