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Mt. Pomiu, previous unreported ascents and history

Pomiu was first climbed in October 1983 by Ted Vaill’s American team, via a fairly direct line up the south face (5.10c, fixed ropes). Liam Lahr, Eric Perlman, and Alan Steck reached the summit, followed a day later by Robert Schneider, Brock Wagstaff, and Pete White (AAJ 1984). Two years later American Keith Brown reported climbing the southeast ridge, solo over three days. He rappelled the east face (AAJ 1986). The third ascent was made in August 2005 by Chinese Luo Ergia, Luo Rijia, and Su La. They began from Pomiu Lake way to the northwest, and made a long traverse below the west face, eventually climbing up to the crest of the south-southwest ridge (left of the original route), which they followed to the summit. A few days later Chinese Liu Xinan and Qiu Jiang climbed the right flank of the south-southwest ridge to reach the crest at a similar point to the previous team, after which they followed more or less the same route to the summit.

The fifth ascent was made by Russians (Kolesov, Shelkovnikov, and Sherstnev) in 2007. From February 9 to 19, they followed a significant new line up the east face, probably the first major winter ascent in this region.

Americans John Dickey, Toby Grohne, and Jesse Huey made the sixth ascent in September 2010 by a new route. The three climbed the ca 1,100m northeast ridge in around 10 hours, simul- climbing all but one 5.10 pitch. They spent extra time re-leading some pitches for Dickey’s camera. They rappelled the east face, reaching their high camp after a 22-hour round trip.

A month later the peak received its seventh ascent by Russians Evgeny Bashkirtsev and Denis Veretenin, who made the second ascent of the southeast ridge over three days (1,500m of climbing). Maximum difficulties were 6c, but the pair stated that in perfectly dry conditions most of the climbing would not be extreme. The 2012 Chinese ascents, recorded above, mark the eighth and ninth of this notable rock pyramid.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO