American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Toro Peak (4,970m, 2008 GPS reading), partial new routes on south face and southeast ridge; retrobolting

India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, from information provided by Samiran Kolhe, India?
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

Three Indian climbers completed a partial new route up the south face of Toro in July, unwittingly following the 2008 Lopez-Pfaff route (5.9) to the large basin about halfway up, and then continuing more or less straight up, to the left of the 2008 American Route (Fredell-Lampley, 5.9). Unfortunately, they placed bolts on almost every belay, using a power drill. The difficulties were estimated at 6a+.

Samiran Kolhe and Richard Khear then climbed a nine-pitch line near the southeast ridge, with maximum difficulties of 6b+ (no bolts placed). Their route begins to the right of the Russian Route (350m, 5.9, Kozlov-Savelyev, 2008), joins it at around half-height, and then follows it, with variants, to the summit.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, from information provided by Samiran Kolhe, India

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