American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Toro Peak, south face, Get Up in the Morning; David’s 62 Nose (ca 4,850m), southwest face, D’yer Mak’er.

India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Krzysztof Banasik, Poland
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

In 2009, Pawel Fidryk and I visited the Miyar, where we made three ascents. We first climbed an obvious crack system on the left side of Toro peak’s south face. Completed on August 21, this gave 300m of amenable UIAA V, followed by 300m of walking/scrambling to the summit. We named the route Get Up in the Morning.

In continuing good weather we climbed another new line, this time on the west side of David’s 62 Nose. We found rappel anchors (nuts and slings) on the initial cracks, but nothing above. We called our 350m climb (nine pitches) D’yer Mak’er, and found difficulties of UIAA VII in the upper section. [Editor’s note: This route takes a parallel line right of Lufoo Lam (350m, UIAA VII+, Grmovsek-Grmovsek, 2007), cuts through Shim Nak (13 pitches, 6b, Arpin-Delege-Iannilli-Perri, 2004), and finishes up an excellent crack system right of the latter.] We rappelled the face south of our route, and then back down the initial cracks.

On the 27th we repeated Long Life Ridge (1,000m, 5.9) on Tamadonog (ca 5,300m). After this the weather turned bad, with 30cm of snow at our 4,800m advanced base.

Krzysztof Banasik, Poland

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