American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Cerro Huayco (6,450m), northwest face

South America, Argentina, Northern Andies

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

Argentines Glauco Muratti and Guillermo Bianchi made the first ascent of this volcanic summit on December 10. A subsidiary summit 2km southwest of Cazadero (6,658m), Cerro Huayco is one of the tallest volcanoes on Earth. Muratti and Bianchi began in Catamarca and approached the mountain via the Río Salado. They then walked for a few days, establishing their last camp at over ca 6,000m in an ancient crater filled with sulphur odor, undrinkable water, and nice turquoise lagoons. They climbed to the summit by the northwest face.

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