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Colmillo Este, Colmillo del Diablo

The first weekend of November, Ulises Espinosa and I, members of the Perros Alpinos Mountain Group, went to Cajon de lo Valdés, a valley containing many classic peaks. Our objective was the unclimbed Colmillos del Diablo: three rocky towers that run from west to east between the hills of Diente del Diablo and Retumbadero Alto.

On the first day we reached Valle de lo Valdés and installed a camp at ca 3,000m. The next day we advanced to the end of the valley, where we climbed snow slopes (30-40°) to the base of the towers, an area highly exposed to rockfall. We decided to try Colmillo Este (3,751m), ascending snow slopes (60°) to a pass between Colmillo Este and Colmillo Central. From here, a narrow snow ridge led to the base of a rocky tower about 40m tall. The climbing never exceeded 5.7, but had few options for protection and the rock crumbled easily: Colmillo del Diablo (750m, 5.7).