American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Various ascents

Nepal, Mahalangur Himal, Khumbu Section

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

While there is no suggestion that the following routes are new, they are previously unrecorded, and took place during the past decade. Bare details are published here to assist future climbers:

On Chumbi (6,859m, just south of the Tibet border, between Hunchi and Pumori, with the broad west face rising out of the Gyubanare Glacier), a 1,100m route was climbed on the right side of the west face, leading to the crest of the south ridge at ca 6,500m (D+, with bivouacs at 6,100m on ascent and descent).

On Point ca 6,250m, a small top on the long east-northeast ridge of Melanphulan (6,573m), the 800m north face (TD) above the upper Nare Glacier has been climbed.

On Peak 6,214m (Schneider map), directly south of Melanphulan, the 1,000m south-southeast spur and south ridge (D+ UIAA III+ 65°) rising out of the Hinku Shar Glacier has been climbed. On Hongu (6,764m), there has been an ascent via the 1,200m south ridge (D).

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO

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