American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Franz Josef Land, exploration

Russia

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Mike Libecki
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

After eight years of research, I obtained permission to go to Franz Josef Land, a 192-island Arctic archipelago, on my never-ending search for unclimbed walls and towers. In July I got a ride there on a Russian sailboat. I found what I’d dreamed of: the northernmost walls on the planet, unclimbed of course. Unfortunately, I also encountered some major obstacles, including rockfall and the local polar bear population. (The previous year, two Russian scientists had been killed by bears.) I was able to free-solo one climb, definitely the northernmost technical rock route, and reconnoiter the area in depth. There are at least nine world-class formations, with walls 400m to 500m tall, between 81°N and 82°N latitude. I plan to return as soon as possible.

Mike Libecki, AAC

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