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Bisotoon, various routes

In January 2013, Miquel Sanchez, Alfons Valls, and I climbed a possible new route on Bisotoon. Along with Joan Sole? and Edu Sanchez, we first repeated a classic line, Gharagash (1,200m, MD), to get a feel for the rock. This took us two days, with a night in a bivouac hut on the wall, but is doable in one. We found snow and ice in the top half—we obviously got there a little early in the season, but an unexpected cold wave didn’t help.

After this we decided to open a new line while Joan and Edu repeated the French route Merci M. Shirzadi (700m, ED 7a, Dauger-Guillaume-Thivel; AAJ 2001). This route has been superseded in many places by a bolted line put up by an unknown party. Our route, Different Problems (650m, MD 6b+), follows an obvious pillar up the far western side of Bisotoon. We climbed 16 pitches in 10.5 hours, leaving a sling, a piton, and two bolts.

Araceli Segarra, Spain