American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Nevado Chicón, northeast summit (5,495m); unnamed summit (5,024m); new route potential

Peru, Cordillera Urubamba

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramirez Carrascal
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

On March 24, Peruvian climber Jorge “Coqui” Gálvez, who had made two previous attempts on the southeast face of Nevado Chicon (5,530m), began climbing alone toward the mountain’s slightly lower northeast summit. Gálvez started his approach at 8 p.m. from the village of Huaran in the Inca´s sacred valley. On March 25, after a short bivouac on the glacier below the southeast face he started climbing at 5 a.m. The route involved 55-65° ice and nevé, with occasional loose rock sections. Gálvez self-belayed several sections and descended via the same route: Gol de Borja (300m, D 55-65°).

On July 21, Gálvez climbed the south face of an unnamed peak (5,024m) located northeast of the village of Patacancha (ca. 3,915m). After a brief bivouac, Galvez climbed solo on alternating sections of soft snow and ice, which he protected with snow pickets, pitons, and some cams in rock outcrops. The last two pitches contained waist-level snow. He reached the summit midday and descended via the same route.

Gálvez also made attempts on Pumahuacanca and Halamcoma, also located in the Cordillera Urubamba. The Urubamba contains many possibilities for new routes, with excellent weather for most of the year and close access from Cusco.

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