American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Urus Este, south ridge; Huamashraju, west face; Pisco, Miss You Baby; various ascents

Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramirez Carrascal
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

In June 2012, Michael Wejchert and Erik Eisle (U.S.) made an ascent of the rocky south ridge of Urus Este (5,420m), believing the line to be unclimbed. [This expedition was backed by an AAC Mountaineering Fellowship.] Previously unrecorded, the route was climbed by Smith Curry and Jason Foote (U.S.) in 2004, and it’s possible it may have been climbed prior (70° M4).

On July 18, Katty Guzmán and Maria Ramírez (Colombia), along with Jared Vagy and Cory Harelson (U.S.), climbed a possible new route on the west face of Huamashraju (5,434m) in the vicinity of the Sims-Jackson route [AAJ 2005]. Six pitches of rock climbing (up to 5.8) led to a snowfield and the summit.

Additionally, in August 2012, Darfur Hefti and Gian Marco climbed a possible first ascent, Miss You Baby (300m, 6c+), on a rocky spur on Pisco (5,752m), starting from the Paron Valley. Further information is lacking about this climb.

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