American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Cerro Caja Real, South Ridge

Peru, Yauyos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Robert Middleton
  • Climb Year: 2013
  • Publication Year: 2013

Robert Middleton and Hannah Moulton climbed what are believed to be two new, or newly reported routes on Cerro Caja Real (5002m, 12°9'59.8" S, 75°38'57.6 W), located in Yauyos. The peak is granite, however there is much loose rock, meaning that both routes are serious despite their low technical difficulties. Both routes were climbed in summer condition, using rock gear and simulclimbing.

For the first route, they approached from the east up the left fork of the main gully south of the main peak. Starting from the col they climbed for 400m (AD-) where easy slabs lead to the summit.

The second route ascends a prominent ramp below the south ridge on the east side of the gully, straight to the summit slabs. A couple of awkward steps are encountered as is much loose rock: Cavers Crawl (250m, PD+).

The peak has certainly been climbed before as a cairn was present on top, and our two ways chosen are fairly obvious, though probably not the easiest, so may have been climbed previously.

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