American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Nevado Carhuachuco, New Route

Peru, Cordillera Central

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramirez Carrascal
  • Climb Year: 2013
  • Publication Year: 2013

Nevado Carhuachuco, new route. On November 10, during a guide course by the Mountain Guides Association of Peru (AGMP), aspirant guide Xavier Ossola and Micher Quito (IFMGA) climbed a new route, Listos Para Hacer Barras (300m, MD M5/6 55-80º), to the south summit of Nevado Carhuachuco (5,507m).

They began climbing the east side of the peak at 2 a.m. from a base camp at ca 4,200m, and by 5 a.m. reached the northeast end of the glacier (ca 5,200m) that separates the peak’s northern and southern summits. From there, they climbed a couloir (30m, 75-80º) toward the south peak. Because of poor ice, they exited the couloir at a rock cave with exposed climbing on poor footholds (M5/6). After an additional pitch (35m, M3) they rejoined the couloir to gain the summit ridge (150m, 55-80º), finishing on easy snow to the top (45-50º). They descended the same route.

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