American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Colchuck Balanced Rock, Accendo Lunae, new variation

Washington, Stuart Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Blake Herrington, AAC
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman, and I climbed a new variation on Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200’), which connects the start and crux ofLet it Burnwith the end and crux of the west face. From a narrow ledge atop Let it Burn’s fifth pitch, we moved right and found a steep, off-sized splitter leading to a sloping belay ledge in a tight corner. The second new pitch followed a thin crack and flare past a square-cut roof and a final thin-hand crack to join the west face beneath its crux roof. Accendo Lunae (1,000 5.12-) is Latin for “illuminating of burning moon,” as none of the trio had a headlamp for the final pitch and descent.

Blake Herrington, AAC

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