American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

Big Kangaroo, south face, Skinny Start; Going Down Under

Washington, North Cascades

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Mark Allen, AAC
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

On July 27, Mike Pond and Matt VanBein climbed a three-pitch variation 30m right of the Kearney-Thomas route, which they called Skinny Start (850’, III 5.11). The two climbed solid granite splitters and left-facing corners (5.10+) before heading slightly left into a right-facing corner that eased off into an easy crack system. From here, they trended left and joined the Kearney-Thomas line. The two finished with a 5.11 fingers variation and topped out the wall.

In August, after climbing a nearby one-pitch wonder, Dave Elder, Mike Pond, and Matt VanBein started as for the Beckey-Tateroute and climbed five pitches of new terrain. Beginning on a broken ledge system, the team traversed hard right across overlaps to reach a big ledge at the base of a beautiful open-book corner. They climbed two classic, clean corners—the second through a burly bulge (5.11c)—before continuing up slabs and exiting via a wide crack with poor rock to a belay below a big roof. They bypassed the roof via easy cracks to the top of the wall, establishing Going Down Under (850’, III 5.11c).

Mark Allen, AAC

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption