American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Peak 3,986, The Forgotten Ridge

California, Sierra Nevada

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Myles Moser, AAC
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

Amy Ness and I made the first ascent of the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10 R), which follows a massive spiraling ridgeline on the southeast aspect of Peak 3,986. We climbed the ridge over two straight days, hauling one bag. We fixed no pitons or bolts and stretched every pitch as far as we could with a 70m rope, making for really long leads. After pitch 11 we divided the load between two bags and simul-climbed the remaining 800’ to the summit. A majority of the route was 5.9, but it contained three pitches of 5.10. Pitch 2 gets an “R” rating due to a long runout on knobs and chicken heads past a roof. While approaching the wall, the route may appear to shrink. It has not. It will only grow and grow in amazement while you climb.

Myles Moser, AAC

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption