North Rim, new routes

Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Author: Compiled from information by Vic Zeilman and Climb Year: 2012. Publication Year: 2013.

In April 2012, Jonathan Schaffer and partners established two new routes along the North Rim. The first, Cloak Dagger (III 5.10c, Schaffer-Zeilman), takes an independent line right of Comic Relief. Starting on the Comic Relief ledge, the route climbs six pitches (mostly 5.9-5.10), with the crux third-pitch corner (5.10+) said to be of very high quality. The second route, Locals’ Route (IV 5.11+ R, Schaffer-Rees-Zeilman), climbs the backside of the Great White Wall via a massive right-facing dihedral for 10 pitches, eventually intersecting with the Tourist Route to the top of the rim. The crux fourth pitch (5.11+ R), freed by Schaffer, climbs a long, thin corner past intermittent gear and a lone bolt, which lead to committing moves below a roof and a striking hand-to-offwidth crack above. More info at

Compiled from information by Vic Zeilman and