American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North Rim, new routes

Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Compiled from information by Vic Zeilman and MountainProject.com
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

In April 2012, Jonathan Schaffer and partners established two new routes along the North Rim. The first, Cloak Dagger (III 5.10c, Schaffer-Zeilman), takes an independent line right of Comic Relief. Starting on the Comic Relief ledge, the route climbs six pitches (mostly 5.9-5.10), with the crux third-pitch corner (5.10+) said to be of very high quality. The second route, Locals’ Route (IV 5.11+ R, Schaffer-Rees-Zeilman), climbs the backside of the Great White Wall via a massive right-facing dihedral for 10 pitches, eventually intersecting with the Tourist Route to the top of the rim. The crux fourth pitch (5.11+ R), freed by Schaffer, climbs a long, thin corner past intermittent gear and a lone bolt, which lead to committing moves below a roof and a striking hand-to-offwidth crack above. More info at MountainProject.com.

Compiled from information by Vic Zeilman and MountainProject.com

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.