American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Mystery Towers, Citadel, The Mugacki Variation

Utah, Castle Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

In October 2012, Fisher Towers veterans Joe Forrester and Jeremy Aslaksen climbed a new variation to the Forrest-Briggs route on the Citadel: the Mugacki Variation (V 5.3 A2+). The route starts at the southernmost base of the tower and avoids the original bolt ladders on the first three pitches of the Forrest-Briggs by climbing challenging, shallow seams, via beaks and cams, for two rope-stretching pitches. From there, they joined the Forrest-Briggs to the summit. The two did not place any bolts on lead, but did leave a two-bolt anchor atop the first pitch.

Compiled from information provided by Joe Forrester, AAC

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