American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Castleton Tower, southeast face, Ivory Tower.

Utah, Castle Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

On October 22, 2012, Chris Kalous freed a wild new route, Ivory Tower (110m, 5.13b) on southeastern Utah’s iconic Castleton Tower. Ivory Tower climbs four long pitches up a sharp arête and face on the southeast spine of Castleton, to the right of the famed Kor-Ingalls Route. It ends atop the Arrowhead, a huge flake, just below the summit. Most of the climbing is bolt-protected, but there are substantial crack-climbing sections as well. In addition to the crux second pitch (5.13b), the route has three 5.12 pitches, which had been redpointed earlier by Sam Lightner Jr., who also reconnoitered and bolted the line. During Kalous’ successful ascent with Lightner on October 22, Kalous followed the first and third pitch free, and led the crux second pitch and the fourth pitch.

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