North Joffre Creek, new routes; Mt. Athelstan, new route; Mt. Rexford, north couloir
Canada, British Columbia
Bruce Kay and partners have continued to develop the North Joffre Creek rock in the Mighty Mouse area, on the east face of the Mouse’s Tooth, an alpine granite cliff band located outside of Pemberton. There are now a half-dozen separate and intertwined routes with difficulties up to IV 5.11 (current info at squamishclimbing.com). Nick Matwyuk and Skyler des Roches climbed a long moderate to the right of Standing Wave on the Fantastic Wall of Mt. Athelstan (600m, III 5.7). Maxim de Jong, Shaun Neufeld, and Drew Brayshaw completed the first ascent of the north couloir on Mt. Rexford in spring 2012. The route was mostly snow climbing with some ice at the crux (60-65°). It gained 1,300m from the logging road to the summit, and had three or four pitches of roped climbing.
Drew Brayshaw, Canada