American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Maujit Qoqarsassia, Golden Lunacy, repeat; Marluissat Peak, Three Hobbits from the Moon and Snake from Appilatoq.

South Greenland, Cape Farewell Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO
  • Climb Year: 2012
  • Publication Year: 2013

The Polish Mountaineering Association sent a three-man team to Greenland specifically to repeat the 2007 Kaszlikowski-Kubarska route, Golden Lunacy, on the huge sea cliff of Maujit Qoqarsassia (AAJ 2008). Although the team did not follow the original line exactly, they did climb the crux pitch, and in their opinion suggest a revised grade of 6c rather than the original 7a+ with one rest point. Aleksander Barszczewski, Marcin Ksiezak, and Jan Kuczera completed the route with one bivouac.

On July 31 the three put up Snake from Appilatoq on Marluissat Peak, above the village of Appilatoq. The 700m (21 pitches) route was climbed onsight in 16 hours at 7a+. Prior to this, on July 26, the same three repeated Two Hobbits from the Moon (also 700m) on the wall to the left, adding a new direct finish (Three Hobbits from the Moon) at 6b. Again, in their opinion the crux pitch of the original route was more like 6a+/6b, rather than the 6c quoted by first ascensionists Kaszlikowski and Kubarska in 2009.

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Comments