American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Falls on Rock (12), Protection Pulled Out (4), Dislocations (4), Inadequate Protection (3), Inadequate Belay, Rappel Error, Falling Object, Off Route, Exceeding Ability, Strained Groin, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 2010

FALLS ON ROCK (12), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), DISLOCATIONS (4), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (3), INADEQUATE BELAY, RAPPEL ERROR, FALLING OBJECT, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITY, STRAINED GROIN

New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

Eighteen reports were submitted for 2009, of which ten occurred in September and October.

The length of the incidents involving falls was from 15-30 feet, though there was one 60-footer that happened as a result of a belay failure. In that case, the climber was caught on a slinged horn and there was no injury.

The average age of the climbers was 40 and the level of route difficulty averaged 5.6. The injuries included five fractures, five sprains/strains, four lacerations, and four dislocations. The latter included one woman (27) who dislocated her knee while putting on her climbing shoes at a rappel station. (This was not counted as an incident.) The other three dislocations (ages 27, 37, and 49) resulted in the climbers having to be lowered. One man (71) with 25 years of experience strained a groin muscle or tendon and had to be lowered.

A man (20) with eight years of experience, according to the report, rappelled off one end of his rope—as his doubled rope was not even. This resulted in a fracture of two of his lumbar vertebrae—but no neurological damage. (Source: From reports submitted by Mohonk Preserve)

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