American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection

California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan, The Nose

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2010

On June 26, Holly (32) and her partner Jeff were climbing the first pitch of The Nose when she took a 40-foot leader fall. She fractured her elbow and had abrasions. She was carried to the road and flown to the hospital. (Source: John Dill, NPS Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

Falling on the first pitch is a common occurrence. Not having adequate protection in this situation is the reason climbers fall to the deck. (Source: Jed Williamson)

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