FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED

Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska

On June 18, W and NB were climbing Grillmair’s Chimney (5.6, 8 pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. W was leading and went off-route. NB lowered W on a single piton, which pulled free. W fell approximately eight metres, resulting in a compound fracture to the left ankle. NB splinted the ankle with an ice axe and then rappelled the route, ran down the trailhead, and then borrowed a cellphone to call 911. Kananaskis Country Public Safety Specialists responded where the injured climber was heli-slung off the route.

Analysis

W could not reach a bolt, and therefore in desperation placed a piton to be lowered on. The piton was not fully placed, and thus pulled. (Source: M. Koppang, G. Field, B. Duncan, Kananaskis Country Public Safety Program)