American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock — Handhold Came Loose, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska

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  • Publication Year: 2010

FALL ON ROCK – HANDHOLD CAME LOOSE

Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska

On May 23, a climber had a leader fall approximately 140 metres up the route Bottleneck (5.8, seven pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. The leader sustained a broken ankle. The party was unable to self-rescue or descend further. They waited on a ledge 125 metres below the summit for Kananaskis Country Public Safety Specialists. A top-down rope rescue was completed with a Public Safety Specialist being lowered from the top at 1816, reaching the climber at 1836, administering first aid, and then being lowered to the base at 1933. The total length of the lower was 270 metres.

Analysis

A handhold broke and the climber barn-doored off the face. He was caught by his belayer, but hit his foot on a small ledge in descent. (Source: M. Koppang, G. Field, B. Duncan, Kananaskis Country Public Safety Program) (Canadian Editor's Note: Whenever possible, parties should attempt to complete a self-rescue.

There were a total of 18 submitted accidents in Kananaskis Country for 2009. Several of the accidents involved hikers or scramblers in technical terrain, including one fatal fall.)

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