Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
1951-07
1959-05
2008
2008
USA
CAN.
USA
CAN.
Terrain
Rock
4453
528
77
Snow
2336
355
31
Ice
267
15
3
River
14
3
1
Unknown
22
10
0
Ascent or Descent
Ascent
2994
587
82
Descent
2273
371
29
Unknown
249
13
1
OtherN.B.
7
0
0
Immediate Cause
Fall or slip on rock
3522
290
67
Slip on snow or ice
1010
207
13
Falling rock, ice, or object
623
137
3
Exceeding abilities
547
32
3
Illness1
391
26
9
Stranded
339
53
6
Avalanche
289
127
5
Rappel Failure/Error2
291
47
6
Exposure
272
14
3
Loss of control/glissade
207
17
4
Nut/chock pulled out
220
9
16
Failure to follow route
186
30
2
Fall into crevasse/moat
163
50
2
Faulty use of crampons
107
6
2
Piton/ice screw pulled out
95
13
0
Ascending too fast
66
0
0
Skiing3
56
11
0
Lightning
46
7
0
Equipment failure
15
3
0
Other4
466
37
25
Unknown
61
10
0
Contributory Causes
Climbing unroped
1007
165
6
Exceeding abilities
905
202
10
Placed no/inadequate protection
736
96
26
Inadequate equipment/clothing
683
70
7
Weather
471
67
8
Climbing alone
397
69
7
No hard hat
343
71
5
Contributory Causes (continued)
1951-07
USA
1959-05
CAN
2008
USA
2008
CAN
Inadequate belay
209
28
9
Nut/chock pulled out
200
32
1
Poor position
177
20
8
Darkness
141
21
5
Party separated
117
12
0
Failure to test holds
101
32
0
Piton/ice screw pulled out
86
13
0
Failed to follow directions
73
12
0
Exposure
64
16
0
Illness 1
40
9
0
Equipment failure
11
7
0
Other4
264
100
4
Age of Individuals
Under 15
1245
12
1
15-20
1271
203
10
21-25
1407
257
13
26-30
1288
211
15
31-35
1080
114
13
36-50
1237
143
30
Over 50
247
31
23
Unknown
1977
530
25
Experience Level
None/Little
1768
304
9
Moderate (1 to 3 years)
1619
354
16
Experienced
1974
440
65
Unknown
2045
559
38
Month of Year
January
229
25
7
February
210
55
0
March
307
68
8
April
407
39
3
May
918
62
20
June
1060
70
21
July
1134
254
20
August
1046
184
11
September
1179
75
5
October
454
42
12
November
194
20
5
December
100
24
0
Unknown
17
1
0
1951-07
USA
1959-05
CAN
2008
USA
2008
CAN
Type of Injury/Illness (Data since 1984)
Fracture
1259
223
44
Laceration
703
71
17
Abrasion
339
76
9
Bruise
479
83
27
Sprain/strain
350
33
22
Concussion
235
28
12
Hypothermia
156
16
4
Frostbite
125
12
7
Dislocation
125
16
0
Puncture
45
13
0
Acute Mountain Sickness
44
0
1
HAPE
72
0
1
HACE
25
0
0
Other5
323
49
8
None
239
188
9
N B- Some accidents happen when climbers are at the top or bottom of a route, not climbing. They may be setting up a belay or rappel or are just not anchored when they fall. (This category created in 2001. The category unknown is primarily because of solo climbers.)
'These illnesses/injuries, which led directly or indirectly to the accident, include: AMS; HAPE and possible CO poisoning; frostbite (3); fatigue (6); collapsed and died on Denali (2) one on summit and another on descent; Raynaud’s disease.
2These include: rappelled off the end of the rope, uneven ropes, mistook 5m (1) and 20 m mark (1) mark for middle of rope; did not attach second rappel rope to anchor; used 8.2 mm rope w/figure-8; threaded lowering rope through nylon webbing sling; and lowering errors (5).
3This category was set up originally for ski mountaineering. Backcountry touring or snow- shoeing incidents—even if one gets avalanched—are not in the data.
4These included: automatically using same site w/out checking conditions (avalanche); failure to turn back—led to frostbite; rapid weather change; removing gloves in cold; unable to selfarrest (5); relied on old webbing for rappel anchor; knee stuck in crack (2); late start; improper use of ascenders (severed rope); fall in river on descent; inappropriate technique—including putting finger in bolt eye (3); miscommunication between climber and belayer; rope severed on jagged rocks; distraction—talking to others while setting up rappel; rappel rope stuck in crack; handhold dislodged—rock fell on climbing partner; inexperienced belayer; late start.
5These included: dehydration (2); subdural hematoma (hence ICP); rope burns to hands; pneumothorax (2).
(Editor’s Note: Under the category “other, ” many of the particular items will have been recorded under a general category. For example, the climber who dislodges a rock that falls on another climber would be coded as Falling Rock/Object. A climber who has a hand or foot-hold come loose and falls would be coded as Fall On Rock and Other - and most often includes Failure To Test Holds.)