American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Snow, "Caught" a Crampon While Descending, Unable to Self-Arrest, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside

  • Accident Reports
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  • Publication Year: 2008

FALL ON SNOW, "CAUGHT" A CRAMPON WHILE DESCENDING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST

Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside

On July 29, a climber (45) caught a crampon tip while descending the standard Southside route, falling about 300 feet. He was unable self-arrest, but as his ice ax was attached to his wrist, it probably caused a shoulder dislocation during the attempt. He also suffered facial abrasions and a sore ankle. With assistance from his climbing partner, he was able to walk down to the Upper Palmer Lift Station where he was treated by an AMR RAT team and assisted down the lift. The subject was taken to a hospital by private auto.

Analysis

Climbers must be well practiced at ice ax self-arrest. If slippery surface conditions, a poor location (run out) or inexperience dictate extra precautions, a rope should be used. (Source: Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue)

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