American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Crusty Snow—"Caught" a Crampon While Descending, Party Separated, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

FALL ON CRUSTY SNOW-"CAUGHT" A CRAMPON WHILE DESCENDING, PARTY SEPARATED

Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside

On May 20, professional guide Joe Owens (also a PMR team leader) encountered an injured climber at the 9,300-foot elevation being assisted by another guide. The unguided climber (age unknown) had caught his crampon on the snow crust while descending and badly twisted his ankle. The guides splinted the ankle, packaged the climber in a sleeping bag/tarp, and lowered him during deteriorating weather and visibility. The climber was transferred to a ski area snowcat. They also alerted the subject's two climbing partners, who were unaware of the injury.

Analysis

Members of a climbing party must remain in contact (communication) with each other to provide mutual assistance in the event of an accident, thereby permitting the party to self-rescue as appropriate. Professional guides often perform Good Samaritan rescues because of their opportune locations, good equipment/training, and humanitarian attitudes. (Source: Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue)

This ANAM article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Comments