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Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled—Inadequate Protection, Belayer in Poor Position, Arizona, Sullivan Canyon, Chino Valley

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED–INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAYER IN POOR POSITION

Arizona, Sullivan Canyon, Chino Valley

On March 4, I was climbing a thin, dihedral crack with a bulge about 30 feet up. I had two nuts in below me as I approached the bulge. My belayer was sitting back from the base of the climb about 20 or so feet because the wall was at a lower angle for the first bit of the climb before the crux. The way the rope was running up to me as I climbed over the bulge made the stoppers turn perpendicular to the rock. When I fell, the protection ripped out fairly easily.

Analysis

The two biggest things I took away from my accident are 1) have sufficient gear for the climb and place it correctly; and 2) the climb will always be there. If you aren’t feeling strong or confident that day, there are always other climbs. (Source: From a report by the climber, Keo Boulton [18])