American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled—Inadequate Protection, Belayer in Poor Position, Arizona, Sullivan Canyon, Chino Valley

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  • Publication Year: 2008

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED–INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAYER IN POOR POSITION

Arizona, Sullivan Canyon, Chino Valley

On March 4, I was climbing a thin, dihedral crack with a bulge about 30 feet up. I had two nuts in below me as I approached the bulge. My belayer was sitting back from the base of the climb about 20 or so feet because the wall was at a lower angle for the first bit of the climb before the crux. The way the rope was running up to me as I climbed over the bulge made the stoppers turn perpendicular to the rock. When I fell, the protection ripped out fairly easily.

Analysis

The two biggest things I took away from my accident are 1) have sufficient gear for the climb and place it correctly; and 2) the climb will always be there. If you aren’t feeling strong or confident that day, there are always other climbs. (Source: From a report by the climber, Keo Boulton [18])

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