American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Failure to Test Holds, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)

  • Accident Reports
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  • Publication Year: 2005

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS

Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)

A climber fell and broke his leg on June 5. The man was climbing a route called The Bowl (145 m. 5.10a) when he grabbed onto a chalk-covered handhold that he had used before in a previous climb near the top of the route. The large rock came loose and hit him, crushing his leg and throwing him off the wall. His belayer caught him, but he still fell about 20 metres. A sling rescue was arranged with Alpine Helicopters. (Source: Burke Duncan)

Analysis

The Yamnuska crag has been described by some as a “hopeless pile of garbage rock.” There is plenty of good rock to be found on the crag, but it is important to test holds before committing to them.

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