American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Equipment Failure through Improper Use-Inadequate Anchor, Quebec, Sageunay National Park, Cap Trinite, Les Grands Gallets (5.9, A2+, 350m.)

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  • Publication Year: 2003

EQUIPMENT FAILURE THROUGH IMPROPER USE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR

Québec, Sageunay National Park, Cap Trinité, Les Grands Gallets (5.9, A2+, 350 m.)

A couple began their planned three-day outing to climb Les Grands Gallets at Cap Trinité on Saturday August 4. They were seen climbing around 100 meters up on Les Grands Gallets (5.9, A2+) on Saturday. On Sunday, park rangers became alarmed when they could no longer spot them on the rock face. Their bodies were found in a crevice at the foot of the cliff. Police believe L.P. and J.V. fell between 100 and 150 meters to their deaths, some time between Saturday and Sunday. The two had intended to spend the night in a portaledge. L.P. had previously acknowledged to a newspaper reporter that she was nervous about sleeping in the portaledge, for it would her first time using such equipment.

Analysis

A public inquiry determined that the fall occurred while the couple were resting on their portaledge. The couple had overloaded their portaledge with too much weight, had improperly attached it to their anchor system, and had neglected to tie themselves in to an independent anchor. (Source: Tu Thanh Ha—Globe and Mail, and Edwina Podemski)

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