American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay—Rope Too Short and No Knot Tied in End, California, Yosemite National Park, Guppy Dom

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY–ROPE TOO SHORT and NO KNOT IN END

California, Yosemite National Park, Guppy Dome

On September 7, Scott Davidson (54) led a short pitch, fixed an anchor and had his belayer lower him (with an ATC). The rope (50m) was too short for the task and there was no safety knot in the end. The end of the rope ran through the ATC and Davidson fell 15 feet to a ledge, then 30 feet on a slab, spraining his ankle. (Source: John Dill and Martin Ziebell, SAR Rangers, Yosemite National Park)

(Editor’s Note: One of many incidents of this kind for the year. By the end of this book, the reader will wonder if some kind of short rope, no knots, etc., epidemic struck the climbing scene this year.)

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