American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Yamnuska

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999


Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Yamnuska

On May 13, D. B. reported a climbing accident to Bow Valley Provincial Park Rangers. The accident occurred on the second pitch of the Red Shirt Route on Mount Yamnuska. The leader, C. R., took a 40-foot fall and the fixed protection sling failed on impact, resulting in the leader falling past the first belay station. C. R. hit a ledge during the fall, resulting in an injured hip. C. R. credits his pack for taking much of the force of the fall, resulting in the injury being not as serious as it could have been. The Alberta Parks rescue team was heli-slung to the area and set up C. R. for a heli-sling evacuation.


Unless one knows how long fixed slings have been in place, a backup is needed. Exposure to ultra-violet light causes nylon to deteriorate rapidly. (Source: George Field, Public Safety Specialist, Kananaskis Country)

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