American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Various Falls on Rock and Inadequate Protection, Rappel Error, Dislodged Rock, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK and INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL

ERROR, DISLODGED ROCK

New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

Of the sixteen accidents related to climbing in this popular, easily accessed area, we have a typical profile for the majority of cases. There were fifteen falls, in which seven resulted in protection coming out. There was one rappel error in which the rope ends were 40-50 feet apart. The resulting fall, fortunately, resulted in no injury. The average difficulty of the climbs on which the accidents occurred was 5.66, and the average age of the climbers directly involved was 36.8.

The most interesting accident involved a seasoned 'Gunks climber (59) who engaged in a deliberate leader fall on High Exposure (5.6) for a filming crew. Some protection pulled, and he fell backwards, hitting his back and head.

Interesting injuries included a climber who impaled his hand on a carabiner, a bruised belayer whose partner had fallen on him, and a rope bum that occurred when a climber grabbed the rope running to his belayer after he fell. (Source: From the report submitted by the Mohonk Preserve and Jed Williamson)

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