AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate Protection, Belay Failure, Alberta, Chinaman's Peak

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAY FAILURE

Alberta, Chinaman’s Peak

On August 22, B.P. (20) and M.K. attempted to climb the usual Northeast Face of Chinaman's Peak when something went wrong, probably on the third or fourth pitch, and they both fell to their deaths.

The climbers were reported overdue by a friend of B.P. the next day, and a helicopter search of the area revealed their bodies at the base of the climb. Their equipment was spread throughout the area. The victims and most of their equipment were slung down to an ambulance at the parking area by the dam, and the operation was complete at 1300.

Analysis

Park Rangers deduced from the configuration of equipment that the leader had fallen and pulled the belayer from his station, but the reason for the leader's fall and the specifics of the anchor failure will unfortunately never be known. (Source: Kananaskis Country Alpine Specialist)