American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Faulty Use of Crampons, Alberta, Mount Andromeda

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS

Alberta, Mount Andromeda

Two climbers had ascended Mount Andromeda and were descending via the Andromeda- Athabasca Col on July 31. Both climbers jumped across the bergschrund with crampons on. On the landing, one of the climbers caught her crampon and broke her ankle. The team was able to descend about 50 feet to more level ground. The uninjured climber descended the crevassed glacier and reported the incident. The climber was evacuated by helicopter and taken to EMS.

Analysis

This bergschrund poses many problems for climbers. Early in the season before the shrund opens up, many climbers try to jump across with crampons on, because it is less time consuming than setting up an anchor and rappelling. The consequence of jumping with crampons on is evident. (Source: Parks Canada Warden Service)

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