American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Various: Falls on Rock, Falling Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate Belays, Stranded, Bees, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

VARIOUS: FALLS ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAYS, STRANDED, BEES

New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

Of the 28 accidents reported from the Shawangunks in 1995, 17 were the result of falling, and in three cases, protection pulled out. The serious injuries included eleven fractures and one dislocation. There were two cases where the rappel rope did not reach the ground, and in one, the person rappelling unclipped and started to down climb when he found that his rappel rope did not reach the ground. He dislocated his shoulder when he fell. A man rappelling from Shockley's ceiling had to be rescued because he became stranded where the rope ended. Another fellow became stranded when he got stuck on Modern Times (5.8) and tried to prussik. His rope jammed, so he could not move.

There were six instances of falling rock, two of which were the result of climbers pulling a block of rock off. (A massive spontaneous rock fall was discovered in the Near traps days after it occurred.)

There was only one formal report of a bee attack, and that was on Classic (5.7). The climber got about 50 stings, but he did not fall or jump, and was all right. The rangers report that every year there are a number of accidents that go unreported because the injured person walks off or self-rescues. Yellow jacket and wasp attacks are common, but most go unreported.

The average age of the victims was 27, and the average difficulty of the climbing routes on which the incidents occurred was 5.6. This is about the same as in the previous year. (Source: Mohonk Preserve)

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