American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities

New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, Intimidation

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 1996

On May 21, Craig Johnson (26) was at the crux move on Intimidation (5.10) trying to place protection, but could not. So he “went for it.” He made the crux and was about to put in protection when he slipped off “polished, moist rock.” He fell 20 feet and hit a ledge just as the rope came tight. He broke both tibias and fibulas.


Johnson “definitely recommends slinging two nuts to protect the crux. He also com- mented, “Make sure you are leading solid 5.10.” (Source: Craig Johnson)

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