LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES

Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside Route

On June 12, 1994, Paul Luty (39) was descending the south side (Hogsback) route, when he lost control during glissade and slid/fell about 700 vertical feet, impacting several large rocks and stopping on the upper White River Glacier at 9,100 feet. A joint agency rescue team (USFS, Hood River Crag Rats, AMR Ambulance, Nordic Ski Patrol) stabilized the subject, and raised him several hundred feet off the glacier. A snowcat from the ski area transported the subject to an ambulance at the ski lodge.

Analysis

Glissading is a safe method of descent under the following conditions: a) climbers are experienced in the technique; b) climbers are adept at ice axe self-arrest; c) the glissade route has been previously scouted and surface conditions of snow/ice are known; d) there are no hazards threatening the route; e) the runout along the glissade route is safe; and f) the slope is not subject to avalanche or snow slides. (Source: Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue)