American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection (Pulled Out), Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake Crag

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION (PULLED OUT)

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Rack of the Lake Crag

C.T. and R.W. were climbing a 5.9 route at the Back of the Lake on September 27,1993, when C.T. fell while leading. His last piece of protection, a wire stopper with quickdraw, pulled out and he fell 15 meters, fracturing ribs and a shoulder. While awaiting help, his partner was able to lower him to a ledge. The victim was lowered to the ground, then evacuated by the Warden Service with a helicopter.

Analysis

The victim was wearing a climbing helmet at the time he fell, and it may have saved him from head injuries, as the fall involved a pendulum onto the rock. One other factor to consider is that at practice areas, climbers seem pressured to climb faster and harder, inevitably with less attention to placements. (Source: Banff National Park Warden Service and Orvel Miskiw)

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